From airfield to public field
When Tempelhof Airport handled its last flights in 2008, Berlin was left with something almost no other city has: an entire airfield, runways and taxiways intact, inside the S-Bahn ring. The grounds opened to the public in 2010 as Tempelhofer Feld, a space of more than 300 hectares. In a 2014 referendum, Berliners voted against building on the field, and a state law now protects its open centre from development. The result is enormous, flat and deliberately unfinished — a park defined by what has not been built.
The site carries heavy history. The vast curved terminal building dates from the 1930s, and the airport was the western end of the Berlin Airlift of 1948–49, when Allied aircraft supplied West Berlin during the Soviet blockade. The Airlift Memorial stands outside the terminal at Platz der Luftbrücke.
What to do
- Ride, skate, run. The former runways, each roughly two kilometres long, are perfect for cycling, inline skating and running on smooth tarmac.
- Wind sports. The steady, unobstructed wind makes it a favourite for kite flying and land-based kite sports in designated areas.
- Community gardens. Raised-bed garden projects, including the Allmende-Kontor, sit near the Neukölln side and are open to look around.
- Barbecue and picnics. Grilling is only allowed in marked barbecue zones; picnics are fine across the lawns.
- Birdwatching. Fenced meadow areas in the centre protect ground-nesting birds, notably skylarks, during the breeding season. Respect the fences.
Opening times
Unlike most Berlin parks, the field is fenced and its gates open and close with the daylight — roughly sunrise to sunset. The exact times shift from month to month and are posted at every entrance. There is no lighting on the field, and staff clear it at closing time, so plan to be heading for an exit as the light fades.
What is free, what is not
Entry to the field costs nothing, as do the runways, lawns and garden areas. Guided tours of the former airport building are a separate, paid offer, and some large events held on the grounds sell tickets. Kiosks and bike hire near the entrances are commercial.
Getting there: routes and entrances
There are entrances on three sides — Tempelhofer Damm to the west, Columbiadamm to the north and Oderstraße on the Neukölln side to the east.
- West side: U6 to Paradestraße or Platz der Luftbrücke; S-Bahn ring (S41/S42) or U6 to Tempelhof for the south-west.
- East side: U8 to Boddinstraße or Leinestraße, or S+U Hermannstraße, then walk to the Oderstraße entrances.
Suggested loop: enter from Tempelhofer Damm, cross the field along a runway to the Oderstraße side, look around the community gardens, and return by a different runway. Distances are larger than they look — the flatness distorts scale.
Pros and cons
Pros
- Unique scale and sense of space
- Ideal smooth surfaces for wheels
- Living twentieth-century history
- Rarely feels crowded, even on busy days
Cons
- Almost no shade — exposing on hot days
- Windy and cold in winter
- Gates close at dusk
- Long walks between facilities
Tempelhofer Feld compared with Tiergarten and Mauerpark
Tiergarten offers shade, water and monuments; Tempelhofer Feld offers openness. Mauerpark is smaller and more social, with markets and performers packed into a hillside. If you want activity and space, choose Tempelhof; if you want atmosphere and people-watching, choose Mauerpark; for a gentle shaded walk, Tiergarten.
Practical tips
- Bring water, sun protection and a layer against the wind, whatever the season.
- Visit early on a clear morning for the best light and calmest runways.
- Check the managing organisation, Grün Berlin, for current gate times and rules.